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When we prepared for our trip to Yellow Mountain we had anticipated cold weather.  The last time I was at Yellow Mountain was on Halloween 2007.  That trip was freezing, windy, and wet.  This time around we were greeted with perfect sunshine, warmth, and crowds.  We thought that since the Golden Week holiday was over we wouldn't have as many crowds to deal with, but we were wrong.  Both domestic and tourist from all over Asia were present, along with a smattering of German hikers, but as usual, barely any Americans.  I've discovered Americans tend to travel the well traveled paths, countries that have gained popularity, and destinations that have been well written about.  I occasionally met an intrepid American traveler along the way in my travels, but the numbers are not as prolific as Germans, French, Japanese, Australian, and British.  Even while traveling in India I met more pairs of Chinese travelers than I did Americans.  I digress. 

Though the perfect weather and gorgeous landscape painted in gradients of autumn brought out a number of admirers, we still enjoyed our time on Yellow Mountain and have vowed to make another trip in the future.  Perhaps a winter landscape the next time?

How To Get To Yellow Mountain

We took the overnight train from Shanghai to Huangshan City, formally a town named Tunxi(I'll refer to it as Tunxi since other than in English everyone still refers to it as Tunxi).  While waiting for the train we discovered there is a VIP room for all passengers with soft sleeper tickets, this tends to be the case with most larger train stations, though most people do not know of their existence, the VIP waiting room from Huangshan to Shanghai was practically empty compared to the overcrowded general waiting room.

After exiting the train station in Tunxi we found minibuses going off to many different destinations.  Our aim was to go up the back mountain and down the front mountain, only later to find out the aerial tram at the front of the mountain has been closed for a stretch of time, which meant the back of the mountain has been handling all the crowds.  I guess I should be more specific since most of the information on the internet written in English doesn't refer to front or back mountain.  The front mountain refers to the area by the Jade Screen Aerial Tram Station, while the back mountain is accessed by the Yungu Temple Aerial Tram Station.  Anyway, long story short, ask for the minibus to Tangkou, as of October 2014 the cost should be 20 RMB per person.  Once in Tangkou avoid the touts trying to get you to take a ride with them, their goal is to get you to stay at one of their hotels in Tangkou, if you refuse their hotel once already in their cars, they are likely to drop you off in a random location, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT take a ride with these touts promising a cheaper ride to the tram stations, they aren't allowed on the roads up.  Don't ruin your trip because of a deal that sounds too good to be true.  Instead head towards the official bus station and pay 19 RMB per person for a bus ride to the Yungu Temple Station.

The bus will drop you off a few meters from the entrance, be sure to not get in line until after first going to the ticket windows to the left of the entrance.  The tram costs 80 RMB one way, the entrance fee for Yellow Mountain is 230 RMB, half price for seniors over the age of 60 and students with a student ID, both discounts apply to citizens of foreign countries as well as domestic tourists.
Yeah, Crowded



Just made it home after a loooong flight.  No kidding internet is spotty in China, well, no that's not right.  Internet is very accessible in China, in fact I feel like people in China are more dependent on internet than we are even here in Silicon Valley, but the sites we are used to here are difficult to access in China.  Even using VPN it is very slow to access anything Google related, hence no posting on Blogger these past few weeks.

Now I am exhausted since I never sleep on planes, but I will have plenty of posts with pictures, stories, and updates about how much China is developed over the last 6-7 years. Now it's time for a shower and a nap!
Waiting To Board At Pudong Airport

Yellow Mountain Scenic Area
At last, it's been 6 years since I've been to East Asia.  Tomorrow we have our flight with Asiana Airlines.  Our first stop is a layover in Seoul.  It's an overnight, but not a lot of time to actually see much.  The fact that it seems like the majority of the things to do in Seoul are shop and eat, I don't think we'll be missing too much.

I'm quite proud of myself, after a number of trips traveling with one bag I was wondering how difficult it would be packing for colder weather, but somehow I fit everything I need in my trusty Campmor with room to spare!  That includes clothes for cold mountain weather, business meetings, and rain.  I'm still debating if I need any rain gear since rain forecast are looking spotty.
My Packing List Should Be Good Unless I Run Into The Same Weather As My Last Time At Incheon Airport

Our plans are still up in the air for a good portion of our trip, but that's because it all depends on if we can get everything done in Hangzhou and Shanghai or if we'll need to head north.

I'll end this post with another handy tip for using Asiana Airlines' website.  The American site does not allow check-in until 24 hours in advance, but the European site allows for check-in 48 hours in advance (47 hours if it's daylight savings).  Thank goodness I discovered this yesterday.  I was able to change seats to closer to the front of the plane and get all aisle seats next to each other for the three of us.  It seems like 48 hours in advance is when Asiana releases blocked seats so I had a good number of seats to choose from.  I checked again today using the American website and just about all the seats that opened up were taken, expect for middle seats.  
How quickly time has passed, next week we leave for China.  We just bought our train tickets to and from Yellow Mountain, forgoing the bus and flight options.  Wow, it is not easy for a foreigner to buy train tickets for China.

There are plenty of sites to monitor train ticket availability, schedule, and ticket prices, but those same sites also charge a pretty hefty premium to use them to purchase tickets.  We were about to use the more popular China train ticket site when our $42-$45 train ticket ended up being $60 after all fees per ticket.  With 6 tickets (round trip), that's a total of $90 - $108 extra in fees.  Seriously, the travel industry really takes advantage when they can.  Luckily we ended up asking distant family living in China to purchase our train tickets from the site www.12306.cn, it's the official China rail site, but you need a Chinese credit card to be able to purchase, foreign credit cards are not accepted.

Before we went the route of having someone in China purchase tickets for us, I did notice the Chinese travel site, Ctrip now allows for train tickets to be purchased through them.  They had that option removed in the past, but for the time being it works again.  Their fee of 20 RMB (roughly $3 USD) is much more reasonable.

We thought traveling after the Golden Week there would be less tourist heading to Yellow Mountain, but surprisingly tickets for the soft sleepers were almost sold out.  Not looking forward to the crowds, but the fact that we were able to get a great deal on our hotel room on the mountain at least indicates not a lot of people are staying overnight, which gives us some peace when the day trippers are gone. 
Daniele convinced me to post the itinerary I created for China back when I thought Apple would be a bit more human and approve a two week trip to China for Daniele.  This is an itinerary for first timers in China who want to see the big sights but also go a little off the beaten path.  It's more realistic than the itineraries that most package tours tend to create, but it's also a little faster paced than what a lot of independent travelers may do on their first trip to China.  It's not for someone who wants to take their time to see every last sight a city has to offer or who takes a whole day to go through one sight, but it's good for people who tend to go through sights fairly quickly and would rather see more than dive deep.  It assumes you are fairly active/ in shape and will not be traveling with children or anyone with mobility issues.  I've adjusted the schedule a little bit since our original trip included time with my parents, which meant time on business related activities, but everything else is more or less the same.

This trip assumes flying in and out of Shanghai, but can also be adjusted to flying into Shanghai and out of Beijing(or vice versa).  Our original schedule had us heading to Beijing right away after Shanghai so that we could make it to a Sunday Champagne Brunch at the Westin both in Beijing and in Shanghai, but I will list it out South to North because train tickets may be easier to get in this direction since most foreign tourist head north to south starting in Beijing. I've also placed Huangshan at the end of the trip instead of at the beginning as originally planned.
Qibao, A Water Town Outside Of Shanghai

Day 1
Arrive in Shanghai - keep this day relaxed, adjust to being in China or just take the time to sleep after a long flight.

Day 2

Alright, flights are booked for Shanghai.  Strangely enough Apple would not allow Daniele more than one week of vacation, which seems so pointless and weird for a tech company.  I joked with Daniele that working in a US campus is only slightly a step up from the sweatshops in Asia.  Since they wouldn't even budge and give him 10 days, we decided he'd have to wait until next time for his first foray into the wonders of Asia (not counting Japan since Japan is similar to the rest of Asia as Germany is similar to the rest of Europe).  So instead of a month in China, I'll only being spending around 3 weeks.

Our flight to China is through Asiana Airlines and includes an overnight in Seoul.  We'll be staying in the tourist center of Myeongdong right in the middle of what many have dubbed "shopper's paradise".  Well, if you're female.  No joke, there are literally door to door cosmetic shops right around our hotel, Hotel Skypark Myeongdong 1.  A quick walk via Google Street View shows more cosmetic shops around our hotel than there are Starbucks in downtown NYC.
After the long weekend the line for visa pick ups was quite long at the Chinese Consulate in San Francisco, but luckily the line moved quite quickly and after paying $420 for three visas, we had our passports back in our possession. It was a bit of a sticker shock even though we knew each visa is $140, but I still remember when 3 visas to China were about the price of one visa now.  I'm really starting to sound old when I say things like that.  Next thing you know I'll be yelling for kids to get off my lawn.

We were all able to get a Q2 visa, multiple entry for 90 day duration without a problem, but the length of our visas varied.  My dad just renewed his passport and was able to get 2 years.  My mom's passport expires in just under 2 years so her visa was only for 1 year, but the most disappointing was my meager 6 month visa.  It's the most expensive Chinese visa I've ever paid for and the shortest duration.  I can't complain too much though, my passport expires next year in July and they only give visas for 1 month, 6 months, 1 year, 2 years.
Q2 Visa For China

In retrospect I was expecting the new rules for getting a Chinese visa to be a huge pain, but it ended up being pretty straight forward.  The new Q2 visa only requires a Chinese citizen to write a letter of invitation, this should be easy considering a Q2 visa was created for visiting family in China.  The rest of the requirements are more or less similar to the old requirements.

I can see how getting the L tourist visa may be slightly more of a hassle.  If you go in a tour you can easily get an invitation letter through the tour company you are using, but if you are an independent traveler like myself and you don't know anyone in China who can write you an invitation letter your only other option is to book your flight and hotels before applying for the visa, then make photo copies to submit with your application along with your itinerary.   I know most people aren't happy with the idea of booking flights and hotels before getting a visa, but your average citizen will not get rejected.  China wants the tourism.  If you really are paranoid about getting rejected for an L visa it's still not a big problem.  You can easily book hotels that allow for free cancellation, but most people get stuck when it comes to booking flights.  Nonrefundable tickets are usually cheaper than refundable flights, but if you get rejected for a visa you're stuck with the flight.  No worries, most booking sites give you the option to buy trip insurance for a reasonable price.  This trip insurance allows for a refund even on nonrefundable flights.  This is what we'll be doing for Daniele's visa.  We'll book all our hotels under his name and purchase travel insurance when buying his flight.  
Today we stopped by the Chinese Consulate in San Francisco to drop off our visa applications.  We arrived around 11 am and were done by 12:30 pm.  Not too bad.  After all the stress over the new visa regulations we didn't have any issues with our visa application packages.  Even if we had filled out our application incorrectly it seemed like the person at the counter was taking her time to go over any mistakes with each applicant, so kudos to the Chinese Consulate in San Francisco for that.

Ever since the new visa regulations kicked in September of last year, I've dreaded getting a visa to China, not only is the visa now $140 for Americans regardless of duration and number of entries (it was $45 the first time I remember getting a visa to China), but there are so many more requirements.  Rather than a catch all L visa for tourist and short term visitors, there are now a larger number of visa options.  We stopped by a travel agency and they recommended my parents and I apply for a Q2 visa, short term for visiting family in China.  The requirements are a little more relaxed, we just needed an invitation letter from a family member in China on top of the basic documents (visa application, one 2x2 photos, copy of the information page of our passport, and passport).  I'm still a little weary of the new requirements, but as far as dropping off our application, everything seemed in order. We'll find out on Tuesday if our visa request for multiple entries in a 2 year period is approved or not.  The last time we were in LA my uncle pointed out to us that it is possible to write in 2 year multiple entry visa on our application IF we've received a multiple entry visa to China before, which we all have.

Once Daniele has approval from work to take a vacation I'll work on his tourist L visa.  His should be easy with minimal complications.  Since the L visa requires either a signed letter from a tour company OR photo copies of his flight and hotel confirmations, we'll just book our hotels under his name and buy trip insurance for his flight on the off chance he is denied.  His visa is also so much cheaper than ours.  As an Italian (and for many other nationalities other than Americans) he has the following options:

Number of Entry
U.S. Citizens
Citizens of Third Countries
Single Entry
$140
$30
Double Entries
$140
$45
Multiple Entries for 6 Months
$140
$60
Multiple Entries for 12 Months or more
$140
$90


Notice Americans only get the one price option.

Once this trip was confirmed, of course I couldn't keep myself from starting to plan.  If there is one thing I absolutely adore doing, it's trip planning.  Such a shame travel agents are no longer a viable career option.

Daniele really wants to see the usual tourist trail (Shanghai, Beijing, Xi'an), which I've done to death, but I don't mind.  I'm going to skip the Forbidden Palace since it's not the same since they closed the Starbucks that was inside (just kidding), but I don't mind heading to the Great Wall again (potentially a new section that I haven't been to yet) and the Terracotta Warriors again, after all, that was one of the first sights to take my breath away.  In an effort to go somewhere new for me, we're going to skip Chengdu and all the sights around Szechuan and that left us with two options that caught our attention.

The first option involved the Li River and a bamboo raft
Things are looking good for an October trip to China, my first time back in China since 2008.  I wonder if I know anyone still in Shanghai?  Actually, it's my first time back in East Asia since 2008.  Hmm, I couldn't find an old photo in Shanghai, but I did happen upon these photos from Hong Kong, Angkor, and Kuala Lumpur.  Excited!  I've missed Asia.







I’ve been involved with three stunning male models in the past, two in San Francisco and one in Shanghai.  Within my small sample size I’ve discovered truth to the cliché that models are not very interesting.  It’s not like being pretty automatically makes a person boring, but when a person spends all their time cultivating one aspect of themselves, other traits are forgotten.  Quickly I grew bored and did everything I could to avoid answering each of their calls.  Of course it was fun at first, I couldn’t figure out why these Adonises were interested in me, but it was a nice ego boost. 



 I've made a lot of mistakes in my life, mostly due to my flightiness and fear of commitment.  I've also squandered my fair share of opportunities, the same opportunities many people would gladly trade their lives for just one of.  I've been very lucky in my life, but not always smart enough to recognize what I had in front of me.  I know this is starting to sound like a deathbed confessional, but that is not my intention.  This is a realization, a retrospect on my life as I deal with the struggles created by my latest misstep in life.

When I lived in Shanghai every day was a new lesson, mostly learned from the men who came in and out of my life.  I think about this now because recently I had someone reach out to me with a note saying we met in Shanghai in 2007.  I couldn’t for the life of me even slightly recall meeting this man.  Though I couldn’t remember this man, there are a number of men who have educated me about life, and their lessons influence me to this day.

I’ll start with one of the last. 


I found a few oldies from my point and shoot days.  These are from my 2007 trip to Tibet, one of the most lovely places I've had the pleasure to visit.




Ok, I'm annoyed, I had just finished writing this post when I hit the wrong commands on my trackpad and deleted the whole post.  Let me see if I can summarize.

There has been an article floating around the business community about an American who was a contestant on a Chinese game show about getting a job.  It was written by John Pasden of Sinosplice and basically it did not go well.  You can read the full article here.

The Bosses’ Reactions


First of all, I should mention that foreigners on Chinese TV are generally given quite a lot of slack. In general, they’re made to look good, given face, not expected to do a lot, but still rewarded with smiles and applause for whatever it is they do on TV. I’m not saying this is right, but it’s certainly something I’m used to seeing on Chinese TV.

Not so with Nathan. The host’s first reaction to Nathan’s introduction (clearly recited from memory) was, “you learned all the bad habits of Chinese TV hosts.” It was a light-hearted jab made in the spirit of fun, but it was probably an unsettling start for Nathan. He went on to explain that he wasn’t quite done with his undergraduate degree in Beijing, but he was looking for a job in advertising where he could help a Chinese company market to foreigners.

The big issue the bosses had with Nathan was that he was 25, has neither a college education nor work experience and only has the fact that he spent the past 3 years studying Mandarin as a strength.  Now imagine if a 25 year old from China studied English in the United States, and without any experience, expected to be offered a well paying advertising job.

My generation, I'm sorry to say, has grown up with a feeling of entitlement.  I'm guilty of it, yes, I admit it.  A little further down the article, John posts an interview he had with Nathan which further irritated me.  First of all, he mentions a headhunter who tells him he could be making 20,000rmb for a monthly salary.  For someone in Nathan's position, yes this can be true, but that is for English teaching.  For the past decade there has been an expectation that foreigners could just show up in China and find well paying jobs.  Though this was true to an extent, things have changed and those without skill will run into the same issues they have in their home countries.  When I lived in China, my friends explained to me the hierarchy of salaries for expats.  Foreigners recruited from their home countries or who are sent to their company's Chinese branch will command the highest salaries.  Usually it is on par to what they make in their home countries along with other incentives and benefits.  If a skilled and experienced worker moves to China first and then locates a job, companies will pay them less, usually around 10,000rmb - 30,000rmb dependent on experience, type of company, and type of position.  If you move to China without experience, you're likely looking at work as an English teacher or any other positions that require a foreign face over skill.  Those positions can pay well, but they give job applicants an over-inflated view of their salary potential in other industries.
I think that neither the host nor the bosses understood why I came on the show or what kind of job I was seeking. I am uncertain of whether the opinions that they voiced on the show were their true thoughts. However, when I went backstage they continued to maintain the stances that they took while onstage. I was baffled during a large portion of the interview because I have never heard statements from the Chinese like learning the Chinese language and culture is unimportant. Views stated were both ignorant and uneducated. Learning Chinese language and culture has been very useful to me, and I expect it to allow me to find a better job. Furthermore, I have never had issues finding a good job in China.

Second of all, I find Nathan's statement above to show that he hasn't learned from his experience on the game show.  Every bad experience we have has an opportunity to teach us something.  Nathan, putting the blame on the bosses and misunderstanding their meaning when they tell him simply learning Mandarin was not as important compared to actually having skills just shows his own ignorance and his own self preservation mechanism kicking in to justify why the reactions of the bosses did not fit his own expectations and evaluation of his skills.   When I watched the show itself after reading John's write up, I didn't see any bias against Nathan.  He received the same reaction he would have gotten from many other potential employers who are confronted with a potential hire who does not have a clear direction or experience.  He was asked what he could see himself doing in his ideal day to day on the job and he admitted he had no idea since he didn't have any experience, but when asked if he would have any interest in an internship, he said he had no interest in that.

From a hiring manager's standpoint, why would I want to hire a foreigner who will cost me more when all he has to offer is the ability to speak English and moderate Chinese?  I can hire a Chinese native who is educated (many Chinese now even study abroad and return to work in China), speaks both languages fluently and asks for a salary at less than half of what Nathan would ask for.  Economically, it makes no sense for a company.  As a job applicant, you need to be able to think about what you have to offer a company and if the answer is very little, then don't expect good results.  Having a foreigner's perspective is no longer an asset.

My point of writing this isn't to bash Nathan, though I'm afraid it might come across that way, but the main take away is that we need to take an honest evaluation of ourselves to realize these entitled attitudes do not serve us in the long run.  I give props to Nathan for having the chutzpah to go on a Chinese game show with his level of Mandarin, that is something not everyone would be able to do.

Like I said, I suffered through these same entitlement ideas as I went through my career.  It's hard not to when your peers are the same way, especially in the tech industry here in Silicon Valley.  Suddenly we all have over inflated valuations of our own usefulness.  On one final note, I have worked in the advertising industry and for the most part, someone with Nathan's skills would best be suited for an internship, period.  I actually have to thank Nathan and the bosses on the show for reminding me that there are no shortcuts.  When you take shortcuts you may be able to fool some people some of the time, but you can't fool everyone all the time.
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